Friday 9 November 2012

All Saints Day in Poland


I was in Poland this midterm break, and I went to the cemetery to celebrate All Saints Day on the 1st of November. It is a day devoted to the dead - relatives and friends who have passed away. I think it's much more special than Halloween. While I was there I had these feelings and experiences that I just had to write down and share. So here we go.

You've never seen something as beautiful, and yet so sad, as a cemetery in Poland on All Saints Day. It's a very sad occasion, with everyone mourning their loved ones. The people take a break from their busy everyday lives to devote this day to the ones who passed away. It's really interesting to see the people's faces in the graveyard. Older people remembering their friends and family, perhaps thinking about their own death. Are they afraid? Some of them tell stories from their past, remembering the people who are buried underneath them. 

I watch some families laughing at funny anecdotes, others hanging their heads in silent prayer. For some families, this day is the only chance to catch up. I watch people, young and old, hugging, laughing, chatting. I see little children praying, holding hands with their parents. They don't understand what is going on, but they realise that they have to behave and be serious on a day like this.

The cemetery itself is beautiful. The amount of flowers in here is shocking. They come in all sizes and colours. There are wreaths and potted plants. There are huge quantities of lights, the flames inside the coloured glass flickering. It's pretty and serene in the daylight, but it's truly beautiful in the night-time. There is a red hue all around the cemetery, like you would see around a huge bonfire, except a thousand times bigger. There are no streetlamps needed, because the reddish-yellow light is everywhere, and it's very bright. It's like you're walking through glowing colours. There is a unique scent in the air, of flowers, matches, and burning candles. Also, during the month of October leaves are burned, especially coming up to November. The smell of burning leaves is almost traditional. I've always loved that smell, it reminds me of warmth and mystery and fires. It's a pleasant smell.

People lighting lights at the front of the cemetery
 The weather at this time of year is usually bad. Cloudy, rainy weather is almost guaranteed. There is an old tale which says that when it rains on All Souls Day (2nd November), it means the souls are crying. Maybe that's why All Souls Day is a much sadder day.

It's difficult to avoid feeling sad and a little bit depressed. Especially when you take a close look at the graves in the cemetery. I've seen several graves from the 1800s. And still, the buried people's relatives remember them on this day, leaving lights and flowers. At least in most cases. It's not uncommon to see an abandoned grave with no lights and no flowers. Weeds grow on the grassy mound. Some of them don't have names on them. Nobody remembers. Some have an old wooden cross, a lot of them are just mounds, overgrown with weeds and grass. The saddest of all, though, are the tiny graves at the end of the cemetery. No longer than a metre long. And the dates on the headstones are heartbreaking. Some birth and death dates are the same, others a few days or months apart. They're so sad I feel a lump in my throat.

Despite all that, this is not an entirely sad occasion. The brightly coloured lights and huge amounts of flowers everywhere are quite a cheerful sight among all the grey stone and gravel. I really think it's magical.


I think All Saints Day is a beautiful tradition and a big part of Polish culture. Even these days, when Church attendance is decreasing and people don't practice their faith as much as they used to, this tradition will live on.


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